Picture frame molding is one of those projects that looks pretty straightforward until you run into an arch, an outlet, a light switch, or another spot that makes you stop and wonder, “Ok… now what?” When I decided to instal DIY picture frame molding in our bathroom, I knew the basic layout I wanted, but there were definitely a few tricky areas that required a little extra problem solving.

Instead of changing the design or avoiding the project all together, I found ways to work around them. I used flexible molding to follow the curve of our arched area, made decorative cuts around light switches and outlets, and figured out a few other little tricks along the way that made the finished molding look much more intentional.

So, if you’ve been wanting to add picture frame molding to your home but have an arch, outlet, uneven wall, or other awkward area standing in your way, I’m sharing exactly what worked for me. These are the tips I wish I had known before I started, and hopefully they’ll make your own DIY picture frame molding project a whole lot easier.

DIY Picture Frame Molding in Our Bathroom

What I Used to Install the Picture Frame Molding

• Trim molding
• Flexible molding – If using flexible molding you need to make sure the regular trim molding you’re using is an exact match both on profile and size.
• Miter saw
• Hand saw and miter box – This is for the flexible molding. You don’t want to use an electric miter saw for this.
• Liquid Nails for paneling and molding
• Nail gun and nails
• Level
• Measuring tape
• Pencil

How to Install Picture Frame Molding

Six years ago I installed picture frame molding in our bedroom. You can see that and how I did it in this post. I used the exact same process for our bathroom. I’ll just give you a quick run down of the basic install here.

First things first is determining your spacing. How far apart do you want your trim? Play around with painter’s tape to help you determine what you like best. For my project, I went with 4″ spacing.

Measure, measure, measure. Grab a level and double check your measurements. Chances are your house is not level, none of them are. If you install your trim solely going off of your determined spacing from your baseboards you’re not going to be perfectly level. Start with the measurements, then go in and mark lines with a level. Measure everything again based off of the level lines. Only then can you start cutting your trim. I love my miter saw for this because it makes it so fast.

The below photo is not flattering, but I included it because I want you to see how I have marked all my lines before installing. Do you see the faint pencil lines going around the mirrors? The measuring tape is your first guide, but the level is your friend.

When installing I like to run a small bead of liquid nails along the back of the trim. Press it into place and then remove it. Wait about a minute. This action will activate the liquid nails. When you place your trim back in place use a level as your guide to keep everything precise. Then nailed it in place with a nail gun.

Once all your trim is attached fill nail holes and run paintable caulk along all the trim edges. This will make or break your finished project so make sure you don’t skip it.

Using Flexible Moulding Around an Arch

This is one of those decisions that will make or break your molding. You could go the easy route and square off the curve at the bottom with straight molding, but it’s going to look like you took the easy route and will cheapen your arch. Instead, I highly recommend using flexible trim. It installs and finishes just like regular trim and will make your space look so highend!

TIP: If you know you’re going to use flexible trim you need to make sure to use the exact same profile and size as your regular trim. If not, they won’t match up at the corners. Since there are less options for flexible trim out there, find that part first and see what you can find that matches it.

How to Install Picture Frame Molding Around Light Switches and Outlets

This little trick ended up being one of my favorite things about the picture frame molding in our bathroom. Light switches and outlets are just never in a perfect spot. If I had worked my measurements so the molding didn’t interfere with their placement it would have been pushed so far into the center of the walls it would have been crazy looking. I also didn’t want to relocate the switches and outlets.

I decided to make this look intentional by running the trim around the switches and outlets. There is a 1″ border around the outlet/switch before the trim begins. I love how it turned out.

What to Do When Measurements Don’t Perfectly Line Up

In our bathroom I was working with a 4″ measurement. This was the measurement between trim pieces, the wall next to where trim began, between the baseboard and the start of the trim, and between the crown and the start of the trim, counter tops, all of it. There was one area I couldn’t make this measurement work. The window over the tub.

What do you do in this situation? If I had kept to my 4″ it would have thrown the trim out along the right edge of the window, underneath the window, and the awkwardly ran up into the windowsill with trim directly along the left edge of the window. It would have looked completely bizarre. So, I “cheated” it for a more uniform appearance with a box directly above the window. Instead of 4″ this made the measurement from the right side of the trim to the wall closer to 6″ and the measurement from the left of the window and the trim by the mirror closer to 5″. Everyone would have noticed an awkwardly placed uneven trim around the entire window, but no one would notice my measurement changes to create a uniform box above the window unless they’re looking for it.

See More of the Makeover

I hope you come away with this feeling a little more comfortable if you’re thinking about installing your own picture frame molding. Don’t let the little tricky parts stand in your way! This is one of those projects that makes a space feel so beautiful. It’s worth the effort. And now that you know how to handle the awkward parts, there’s no reason not to do it. Just look at what it did in our bathroom!

Check out the full makeover and all the sources here!

FAQ

• How did you get the corners to match up seamlessly? After installing I went over the corners with wood filler. Once dry I sanded smooth before painting.
• Do you have to use caulk along the edges? Yes! It may be tempting to skip this but it is am important step in making this look professional and not a half attempt. Those gaps will be visible.
• Does it matter which way the trim faces? Yes! You want the thicker side of the trim’s profile to be the outside, the thinner side is on the inside.
• If an outlet/switch is in the way, can I just butt the trim directly up to it? No, you don’t want raw ends of the trim exposed. That’s why you create a path around instead of running into it.
• Can I avoid nails and use just Liquid Nails? I have seen people do it by using painter’s tape to hold the trim in place while it cures. But, I prefer to use nails in addition to Liquid Nails to keep it perfectly in place. While the initial grip is strong, it does slide around. You don’t want to walk back in and have uneven trim because it moved and dried into place.
• What paint finish is the molding? In my home the picture frame molding is the same paint finish as the walls – matte. The baseboards and crown molding are semi-gloss.

I’ll be sharing how I built the bathtub panel skirt next so stay tuned!

Let me know if you have any questions in the comments and I’ll get back to you!